Springs Sprung

by Rex Buchanan

One morning a few years back I ate breakfast with Roger Martin, the guy who edits this electronic magazine. I'd just co-authored a new book on Kansas geology, and he complimented me on it.

"I could see that water was the subtext of your book," Roger said. "That was really wise of you."

To be honest, I'm just a simple country boy who grew up in the middle of Kansas. I wasn't even sure what a subtext is.

But I'm not dumb. "Thanks for noticing," I said.

I realized then that it's impossible to write or even think seriously about the state of Kansas without taking water into account.

For the past few years, I've spent some time working with Bob Sawin, a colleague here at the Kansas Geological Survey, and Wayne Lebsack, an independent geologist, on an inventory of Kansas springs. In part, this project is the result of scientific curiosity, an attempt to gauge the health of the state's water systems and see how springs have changed in the 100 or so years since people began dramatically altering the landscape.

The project is also an attempt to provide information to towns, landowners and other people interested in potential water supplies. After all, water's the one resource that you can't do without, or substitute something else for.

Over the course of this work, we've visited nearly 200 springs in just about every corner of Kansas. We've learned a few things.

Springs in the Flint Hills, for example, seem to be in pretty good shape. Their water quality is generally good, especially when compared with springs in the rest of the state. In western Kansas, on the other hand, lowering the Ogallala aquifer has dried up springs that had lasted for centuries before large-scale irrigation.

We've seen some incredible springs. Crystal Spring, in Marion County, produces water for the town of Florence. Every minute, 3,000 to 4,000 gallons pours out of this spring. Some is used by Florence, population 650, and the remainder flows into the Cottonwood River. Florence's water tower advertises its product as 99.96% pure, by the way, and our analysis shows that's about right.

I thought I knew a lot about Kansas before this project, having grown up here and spent much of my life studying, and writing about, the state's geology.

But during this project, the Kansas landscape has offered a new range of experiences.

  • Like running my fingers across Native American petroglyphs scratched into the sandstone that crops out near springs in the Smoky Hills of central Kansas.

  • Like finding a small, brilliant red mushroom (known scientifically as a scarlet cap fungi) growing beneath one ledge of limestone at a Chase County spring on the new Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve.

  • Like tasting the peppery flavor of watercress that grows in about half the springs we've visited. (Watercress, by the way, isn't native to Kansas, but was planted in springs by early Europeans moving across the plains to provide a source of vitamin C for later travelers.)

  • Like watching bass rise to eat grasshoppers at the surface of a crystal-clear pond, fed by springs in the pastures of Meade County in southwestern Kansas.

  • Like finding a grove of trees (above one spring in Barber County) completely covered -- almost dripping -- with monarch butterflies that had been migrating south in autumn, only to be caught and stopped by a cold front.

The people we've met have been just as interesting as the natural world. In the process of getting permission to visit these spots, we've knocked on the doors of everything from multi-million dollar mansions nestled in the Flint Hills to old houses with chickens living on the front porch.

Probably the most amazing thing about the people has been their eagerness to help. Almost without fail, these landowners are willing (not just willing, but excited) to jump in a vehicle with three total strangers and drive into a pasture to show us a place they consider important.

Having been to almost 200 of these springs, I can see why people care about them so much. They are special. Springs are places where the natural world and human history intersect. They are a source of the water that all of us (people, animals, plants) need to survive.

Maybe best of all, they are a way to know the world.

For more information on this work, click here.

Rex Buchanan
Associate director for public outreach
Kansas Geological Survey
rex@kgs.ku.edu

Buchanan is co-author (with Jim McCauley) of Roadside Kansas: A Guide to Its Geology and Landmarks, and editor of Kansas Geology: An Introduction to Landscapes, Rocks, Minerals, and Fossils, both published by the University Press of Kansas.

 

Jack Spring, south of Matfield Green in the Kansas Flint Hills, is nearly pristine. It issues from a cave system that extends for several thousand feet into the hillside.

(Photo by Bob Sawin)

 

Wayne Lesback (left) and writer Rex Buchanan study a spring from the Dakota Sandstone in central Kansas (Rice County).

(Photo by Bob Sawin)